I do not claim to be an expert in this field, and am only
to pass along my experiences and impressions to you, for whatever they
It is assumed that if you are reading this, you may be considering
possibility of socio-economic collapse from any number of reasons. If
comes to this, we all know that it won't be like the depression of the
1930's, when the unemployed homeless came around to your back door at
mealtime, begging for a bowl of soup which those employed were willing
Now days people are dependant on gov't welfare, and consider it
_right_ to be given (or take by force) the necessities of life. For
family that gives up vacations, meals out, consumer goods, etc. to
thousands & thousands of other families will not! You survival will
on your ability to protect what you have.
Unless you already live in a very small town, or in a sparsely
populated area out in the country, it is imperative that you have
to go. At the onset of socio-economic collapse the cities will rapidly
become a death trap. Plan on getting the hell out at the first sign of
things going bad!
The ideal situation for city dwellers is to have a farm or ranch
100 miles away from any major city. If you live on the coast, then
it at 200 miles, because the population fleeing the city can only go in
direction. If you can get farther away than this, then do it. The
thumb used to be "at least a tank of gas away from any city." However,
with the advent of more fuel efficient cars, this is getting much
You don't want to pick an area with neighbors that are laid back
totally unprepared. You want your neighbors to be armed and fiercely
independent, willing to fight to protect what is theirs. Many of the
folks in Texas fit this criteria. If your neighbors are unarmed and
unwilling to protect themselves, they will only attract looters &
from the city to the area. Neighbors can help protect and reinforce
other. You also must be psychologically prepared to protect yourself
If you cannot afford to buy your own place, you are going to have
find somewhere to go, ahead of time. Do you have any relatives that
in the country or small communities? How about friends? If not, can
make some friends that do? You could buy a gun vault to keep in their
If all else fails, I guess you could retreat to public land, but I
wouldn't rate your chances very good. You would have to pick out a
to bury your supplies at, and hope nobody finds them. Not too good of
Never retreat alone. Looters are much more likely to attack
individuals than groups. One person can't stay on watch for 24 hrs/da.
Buy an army pack, camouflaged combat clothing, hiking boots, and
military web carrying equipment for each member of the family to keep
home in the city. Hopefully, you will get out of town soon enough to
to your retreat, but be prepared to walk all or part of the way if
what it takes. Keep enough weapons, ammo & survival gear to get you
Your heavier weapons, and the bulk of your ammo and survival gear
stored at your retreat.
Don't plan on being able to drive to your retreat by the regular
highway route. Go to a map store & buy the US Geological Topographic
Survey maps covering every area you drive through to get there, plus
general areas around your retreat. If you can't find these maps, call
at 703-648-5990. Also buy county maps of every county you have to pass
through. In Texas a private publisher has put into booklet form every
county map in the state, for about $14.
Now, you will have to drive to your retreat on back roads, using
maps. Use as many roads as possible that don't show up on your state
highway map. You'll likely find that these roads will take longer, but
they'll get you there, while avoiding populated areas. Traffic will be
light because only those prepared as well as you will be able to find
or know where they go.
Mark your routs with a highliter. Note possible hazards along the
way. These might be routs near military bases, prisons, low water
crossings, rivers prone to flooding, etc. Write down the road numbers
you go, for some county maps show the roads but not the numbers. Take
different routs in different kinds of weather. Mark "holding-up"
for car repairs, meeting friends or relatives on the way, etc.
When you get your maps marked like you want, coat them with a
proofing compound. This also makes the paper tougher & less prone to
at the folds. "Stormproof" is one brand you might find at the map
A new product just came out called "Map Seal." Contact Aquaseal in
Everett, WA at 206-290-7530. They also have some new leather
compound, waterproof tent coating, etc. Both of the products are a
you just paint on with a brush.
Now to the guns............
Rifles are the backbone of your survival battery. However, every
adult member of your group must have a pistol because it can always be
your side. Whenever visiting the retreat, all members should wear
pistols so as to get familiar with them and used to carrying them. Do
shooting each time, too.
When it comes to survival pistols, forget about revolvers. They
hold enough shells, are too slow to reload, too heavy, and are open to
dirt. Also, it is hard to replace parts in them if they break.
Semi-automatic pistols are a must! Preferably the new ones with
capacity, double column or staggered magazines. The smallest caliber
should consider is 9mm. I am of the school of thought that "bigger is
better," so I prefer the slow moving .45 ACP cartridge. Others think
faster, but smaller 9mm is better. No one can _prove_ which one is
so select the one you like. In between calibers are .38 Super Auto,
S&W, and 10mm, the most common (& easiest to find) being .40.
In my experience, the Glock pistols are by far the best choice.
are very light because of the plastic receiver (frame) they have. Even
they are about the strongest pistol on the market. The factory not
allows, but recommends that you shoot a steady diet of hot submachine
in them. They say that their pistols will handle any cartridge
manufactured in the world that is the proper caliber. That's a far cry
form S&W and other brands of light alloy frame pistols, which you have
call the factory first to see it they will handle the hot loads. Many
models are not capable of handling hot loads.
Since the Glock has a plastic frame, it cannot rust. The barrel,
slide and the parts are coated with a black substance that will not
wear off, with a hardness second only to diamonds. The pistols are
reliable and _very_ accurate, but moderately priced. They all have
Spend the extra $100 or so, and get the nuclear powered night
These are a must. You can fire accurately at a target at night if you
only see the silhouette of it. They turn it into an effective 24 hour
weapon instead of a daytime weapon. These are well worth the money.
you already have a Glock without night sights, send it back to the
& have them installed.
Whatever kind of pistol you settle on, get one of the Bianchi UM84
UM92 nylon military holsters to attach to your GI pistol belt. If
restrictions apply, a leather US Army flap holster will do. Get one or
double magazine pouches to attach to your web gear & fill them with
Glocks cost around $500+ without the night sights. If you can't
afford this, look at the Chinese Norinco 1911 type .45 pistol. For
$200 they have a 9mm Tokarov pistol which works ok. For a little more,
can get a Tokarov with a staggered (high capacity) magazine. Karen, an
Israeli company, now imports a plastic framed pistol styled after the
Browning Hi-Power ($300+), which holds 14 rds. of 9mm. There are many
other Eastern European companies that offer inexpensive pistols.
In my opinion, it is no use looking at pistols more expensive than
Glocks. They can't do anything the Glock won't do as well, or probably
Get at least 3 or more extra magazines for each pistol. That way,
can carry 2 loaded in a belt pouch & have a 3rd to rotate so that they
don't stay loaded all the time & eventually weaken the springs. You
might damage or lose one.
I would establish a goal to eventually stock 500 rounds at the
for each pistol. A bare minimum per gun should be 250 rds. Don't shy
from 750+ rds./gun. Extra ammo can always be used to barter with your
In semiauto pistols, only ball ammo (full metal jacket) should be
initially. Fire the pistols 100-200 rounds to break them in. After
you can experiment with hollow point ammo if you desire. It will
is some autos, and not others. Be sure you fire 100-200 rds. of hollow
point in your pistol without any jams before you depend on it.
Learn well how to take your pistol apart so you can keep it
All weapons have their strong points as well as their limitations.
Always utilize your weapons to maximize their effectiveness. The
gives an example of suggested weapon usage versus range:
0 - 50 yds.:
Riot Shotgun with 12 gauge buckshot. Out to 100 yds with slugs.
50 - 300 yds.:
.223 (5.56mm) - AR-15, .223 Galil
7.62x39mm - SKS, AK
300 - 800 yds.:
.308 (7.62x45mm) - M1A, HK91, FN-FAL, .308 Galil
30-06 - M1 Garand, '03 Springfield
8mm (7.92mm) - Mauser, FN-49
303 British Enfield
The riot shotgun (barrel 20" or less) is an extremely devastating
weapon out to 50 yds. Pump shotguns are cheap ($250.00), so purchase
plenty of them.
Out to 300 yds the .223 is flat shooting and fast shooting. It's
ideal to repulse a typical assault at medium ranges.
Beyond 300 yds the .308 battle rifle is vastly superior in
and effectiveness. With scopes, you can engage the enemy long before
can return accurate fire.
Automatic weapons may be of questionable value for survival use.
is unlikely that you will have to repel an assault that cannot be
by accurate semi-auto fire. If your budget allows automatic weapons,
light on the submachine guns, but do have them fitted with sound
suppressors (silencers). Of more use would probably be the 1918-A2 BAR
the FN-FALO squad support machine rifle. A Browning 1919-A4 belt-fed
machine gun might be of use mounted on a tripod or in the back of a
on a vehicle pedestal mount. If you use these, remember to stock
Silenced .22 rifles & pistols might be of some use in taking out
sentries quietly, or for hunting small game without drawing attention.
About half the states allow ownership of suppressors and machineguns.
you live in a qualifying state, find a Class 3 dealer in your area.
is a $200 tax on each item, and they must be Federally registered.
In 1989, George Bush banned the import of modern infantry rifles
Presidential decree. Those such as the HK91, FN-FAL, Galil, Styer AUG,
and others are no longer being imported. The ones previously imported
sold now bring premium prices or $1500-$2500 each.
Recently, foreign manufacturers have modified the guns to make
"sporters." They now have "thumbhole" target stocks. Basically, this
accomplished by adding material the stock to connect the bottom of the
pistol grip with the rear of the stock, leaving a hole for your wrist
fit in. Reports from people having used them are favorable. Some say
get a more stable hold with this modification, only they look a little
funny. The bayonet lug has been removed, being of little consequence.
They are fitted with 5 rd. magazines, but the old 20, 30 & 40 round
magazines are still being imported & will fit these new rifles.
legislation has been proposed to stop the import of these larger
Flash hiders have also been removed, with creates more flash, but at
same time reduces the muzzle blast for the position of the shooter.
The only domestically manufactured infantry rifles are the Colt
and the M1A. The AR-15 is the semi-automatic counterpart to the M-16
rifle, and the M1A is the civilian counterpart to the M-14 .308
Buy plenty of shotguns! Pump shotguns are by far the best because
they are the most durable & less prone to jam than semi-autos. They
simple to operate. A 20" barrel is the best. It's short enough to
easily from a vehicle & it's fast to swing form target to target.
The legal minimum barrel length under Federal law is 18", but that
increases the muzzle blast significantly. Don't saw one off to a
length because it's a 2nd degree Federal felony punishable by 10 years
$10,000. Also, you lose your choke at the end of the barrel, which may
throw off you patterns. The only reason for a shorter barrel would be
hiding under a trench coat, combined with a folding stock. If you must
this route, buy it legally from a Class 3 dealer & make sure you get it
with an interchangeable choke tube.
[Last edited Mar 10, 2015 17:11:32]